Riding coach on the Zephyr is somewhere between a cheap seat
on an airplane and a cruise. The train (#6 anyway) had 1 engine, 3 coach cars,
1 observation car, 1 dining car, and 2 sleepers (in that order). Coach Seats
Most coach seats are on the second level, the bottom has a
couple seats reserved for those who cannot go upstairs, the reminder is full of
restrooms. You get large reclining seats with both a short (thigh length)
attached leg rest, and a foot rest that is attached to the chair in front of
you. The foot rest has 2 positions, low and just right, the attached leg rest
can stop anywhere you like, though I found they work best together. The seats
did not recline nearly enough for me, but it’s better than nothing. The chairs,
like more airliners, come equipped with a small dining tray that slides to you.
It was about 6 inches short of being at a comfortable eating position for me. Plenty of room for medium and smaller baggage
is supplied above seats, and a limited amount for large bags is downstairs,
though it is not locked and no one is there to stop the first people on from
taking up all the limited room. The View
The observation deck (limited to the top floor) is lined
with paneled windows that coat the entire side curve onto the ceiling. This
makes for a bright room with great views. Half the car has 2 and 3 person
benches facing the windows; the other half is 4 person booths with tables,
which are ideal for snacking and board game playing. The viewing benches are
smaller, with no head rests, and foot room can be a bit cramped, but they are a
nice change after sleeping in a recliner all night.
The view is best seen from (surprise! surprise!) the
observation deck, but it’s not too bad in the coach cars either (good size
windows all along the sides with curtains for those who want to sleep). The abundance
of scenery (We only traveled from Salt Lake City to Chicago, so I can’t speak
for the California and Nevada parts) is rocky canyons, sometimes forested. The
book cliffs in Utah look right out of a western movie, and the Mancos shale
makes for some interesting slopes. The many beautiful canyons that the Colorado
river has cut through provide so many opportunities for post-card quality
photos it almost becomes hackneyed until you review your photos. The final leg
of the journey is pretty flat and lots of corn and soy bean fields, which are beautiful
in their own way. Lots of pedestrians and campers waved at us friendly like,
but of course they couldn’t see us return the gesture through the heavily
tinted windows.Dining
The train has gas-station to fine dining opportunities. A café
car, below the observation deck, has fruit, snacks, small cereal, bagels, hot
dogs, and other such tasty treats. The cashier heats up hot dogs and the like
for you in a microwave before giving them to you. The prices are roughly double
that of most convenience stores, $4.50 for a hot dog, $2.50 for a small cereal
bowl, $6.00 for a meat and cheese sandwich, but hot water and a fork for the
cup-of-noodles you brought: free. The dining car has booths with tables and
serves higher quality food for proportionally higher prices, which can be found
on this menu, though the prices given on this menu are a few dollars less than
the current costs.Final tips
Taking the train is half the price of the cheapest plane
ticket, and much more comfortable, though it takes considerably longer. If you
want to enjoy you trip, be sure to have something to do: read a book, watch
some movies, bring some work, or whatever you like. The view is often great,
and provides a speed tour through the country and the edges of cities. Sleeping
can be difficult, bring a little pillow and light jacket or blanket (it gets
cold with the AC, even in 90 degree heat outside). Be sure to plan a good menu if
you bring your own food because it’s hard to enjoy a nice view or book when you’re
hungry. It’s not for everybody, but I think it’s a unique experience worth a
try.
This is good to know. Did your train by chance have wi-fi?
ReplyDeleteIt did not, but it did have plenty of 12 volt plugs.
DeleteThanks for the review and the tips! These are good things to know. You say it isn't for everybody, could you expand on that? (Who is it good for and who not?)
ReplyDeleteIt is especially good for those who 1) have time, but not money and 2) enjoy seeing things through a window where there are great views but they change constantly, and 3) like talking with others.
DeleteIt is not good for people who 1) can't sleep in a chair with lights on nearby, 2) can't stand waiting around/ are not good at finding things to do to pass the time.
I know folks that brought a baby, they liked it. There is a mother's lounge next to the bathrooms, not sure what its like inside. You might have people angry at you if your baby was crying for a long period of time (obviously) especially at night.
Excellent review! I had the privilege of riding the same train the opposite direction from Salt Lake City to Chicago. Hope you don't mind me adding to your review. I had fantastic experience which I recommend to anyone willing to spend a couple of days traveling.
ReplyDeleteI spent the vast majority of my time in the observation car. I think I only went back to my seat to sleep. There were plenty of people in the observation car willing to talk if I was willing to introduce myself, so the time went by very quickly.
This particular trip was unique because just before boarding the train I found out that I had to give a 15-minute presentation during a job interview just a few hours after I was scheduled to get off the train. With no wi-fi, this meant I only had the people on the train as my resource. They were brilliant! Better than the Internet.
I met two older couples traveling together who came from varied backgrounds and gave me loads of information to work with, and then they bought me lunch in the dining car. The food was excellent, but I never had to see the bill. I might splurge and buy one meal on the train if I ever get to go again. It definitely made the trip more enjoyable and helped the time pass.
I met many, many more fantastic people as I introduced myself, explained my situation, and asked them questions. Everyone on the train seemed friendly, polite, and willing to talk. It was a very different atmosphere from an airplane. Some people were busy reading, so I just didn't interrupt them, but they would sometimes overhear my conversation with someone else and then join in. We were all looking for something to do to pass the time while we enjoyed the view.
The one downside to spending the majority of my time in the observation car was that I had to leave my stuff behind at my seat unattended. Thankfully, no one took anything. Next time, I would like to find a way to protect my belongings while I'm away.
Thanks again for the review! I agree wholeheartedly!
Hehehe... I meant that I rode the train from Chicago to Salt Lake City. Oops.
DeleteI agree with everything you said, the people seem to be polite and friendly, much different than an airplane. The only downside of the observation deck is what you said: you end up leaving your belongings unattended, and sometimes there are not enough seats.
Delete(From Jerry and Vicky Jex):
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the information above.
Sounds pretty interesting. Great trip idea for someone not in a hurry or retired (like us). Jeremy said that you can get a train ride from Washington to Chicago (or anywhere in the US without changing trains) for $135 one-way. We'll have to check it out when we return from our mission. Unfortunately they don't have an Amtrak Train Station here in Guam. Nice to avoid the airport lines and hassle.
The prices on the menu aren’t too bad. They’re cheaper than Seattle Space Needle prices. Both are served in a moving dinning area. Too bad the actual cost is a few dollars more.
The view from a train shows more of the local area than a freeway ride. In China the train would go behind houses and you'd see their laundry hanging on the line and other hints of their way of life that you wouldn't see otherwise.
- Elder and Sister Jex
Enjoyed your story, and your advice is excellent. I love to travel on trains, and this really brought me back there. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteYour comment was very helpful. My boyfriend and I are thinking of taking the Denver train to Glenwood Springs to avoid the rough icy driving conditions. We are going to celebrate our anniversary in Glenwood Springs but I'm nervous about our first train ride, not really sure what to expect but your review really helped a lot! Thank you!
ReplyDelete